Hike Big Bend and Carlsbad Caverns National Parks

Today we hike Big Bend and Carlsbad Caverns National Parks! You’ll learn what to see, when to go and what makes these national parks so special. We also swing by some area funky towns, like Marfa, as we travel between these two magnificent parks. The landscapes we hike through include the rugged high desert canyon lands of Big Bend down in Texas, to the striking caverns of Carlsbad that Will Rogers once claimed was like the ‘Grand Canyon with a roof on it’! We will learn when the migratory bats return to the caverns, and about the awe inspiring night sky, where you’ll see the Milky Way, comets and more!

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When to Visit Big Bend and Carlsbad Caverns

While these national parks are open year round, some parts of the year are more comfortable, temperature wise, and if you want to see the bats at Carlsbad, they only visit a few months of the year.

Best Time to Visit Big Bend National Park

Even though you are hugging the Mexican border, you are in the high desert. This means it can get chilly during the winter and very hot (90’s F) during the summer. The most comfortable temperatures are from November through April (70-85 F). Our guest, Arlis, visited in January and had very pleasant weather, with an early morning chill (upper 30’s during winter). Average monthly weather.

Best Time to Visit Carlsbad Caverns

The caverns maintain a consistent temperature of 56°F (13°C) year round and is humid. Be sure to bring a light jacket or at least wear a long sleeved shirt. However, winters can be very cold and summers very hot, so to see the caverns themselves, you may prefer spring and fall. In winter, temperatures can drop to around freezing, and during the summer, temperatures can get close to 100 F. Average monthly weather.

The trails are dimly lit but there are handrails. Part of the Big Room is wheelchair accessible. Only service dogs are permitted in the caverns. Emotional support animals must be kenneled (for a fee). No recreational walking sticks allowed (unless medically necessary) or strollers allowed. If you have difficulty walking the 1.5 miles down, you can take the elevator up and down.

Brazilian Free Tailed Bats of Calsbad Caverns

If you want to see the Brazillian free tailed bats, they arrive in spring, usually mid to late April and return to Mexican caves in October. The Rangers Bat Programs begin around Memorial Day, but if you visit earlier in the spring, and the bats are there, you can watch the bats from the Park’s ampitheater. Note that to protect the bats, NO electronic devices are allowed. This includes cameras of any kind, laptop computers, cell phones, iPads, iPods, tablets, and MP3 players. You will also need to sung your shoes in a disinfectant before entering the cavern to protect the bats from white nose fungus, which has been devastating to bat populations.

Things to Do at Big Bend and Carlsbad Cavern National Parks

Things to Do at Big Bend National Park

Scenic Drives

First of all, you will need a car to get there, as there is NO public transportation (keep it topped off with gas, too, as the park is fairly remote). So since you are driving, be sure to take the scenic drives to get a nice feel for the park.

Hiking

Hikers can tackle some of the different day hikes. You’ll have a choice of:

Chihuahuan Desert hikes for peace, solitude, bird watching and cactus. 80% of the park is desert. Here’s a link to the various trails. Be sure to pack PLENTY of water – ideally bring a bladder full plus some backup in your pack.
20 miles of Chisos Mountain trails. A great option any time of the year, but especially when the desert is too hot. Be on the lookout for black bear and mountain lion scat. You might even see a gray fox or deer. Impressive landscape packs a lot of ‘wow’ factor! Check out the trails here.
Rio Grande River hikes are a must when visiting the park! There is a great variety of hikes that showcase the canyon, the history and even some hot springs! You can check out the trails here.
You can hire a local guide to take you on a day hike. They can also outfit you and help you plan a backpacking adventure.

Backpacking

If you’ve got the backcountry experience, consider backpacking in Big Bend National Park! You’ll need to get a permit to use on of the 42 designated back country campsites. You can reserve up to 6 months in advance, or take a chance on getting a permit two days in advance. Group size is limited to 8 during Covid, and 15 after the pandemic.

Backpacking Big Bend opens up hundreds of miles of trails to you! You can get more information here. Here’s a link to a local outfitter who can help you plan your backpacking trip and outfit you as needed.

I would recommend being fairly experienced or an excellent planner as you will need to figure out both water and food issues and storage. Water is especially crucial in an area that only get 10″ of rain each year!

River Trips

Love to paddle? Consider a rafting or kayaking trip on the Rio Grande through the magnificent Santa Elana canyon! I would recommend using a local guide. You will need an overnight permit if camping. The overnight or three day trips are the most popular, but your could also do a one day paddle or float. You would still need a (free) permit – the rangers want to know who is out there.

Cycling

One great way to explore Big Bend is by bicycle! There are over 100 miles of paved roads and over 160 miles of backcountry dirt roads. To protect the fragile environment, all cycling MUST be on established roads. However, you are certain to find a trails suitable to your experience level and cycling preferences. Yoy can get more information here.

Horseback Riding

You can explore Big Bend on horseback – IF you bring your own horse (or pack animal). There are no local horses available to rent. You will need to get a permit and are able to stay at the back country camp sites. Note that animals ARE NOT allowed to graze, so you must also bring feed. You can get more details here.

Other Fun Things to Do at Big Bend

Stargazing is fabulous at Big Bend, since there is no light pollution. Birdwatching is also quite popular. You can even go fishing!

079 Arlis Miles in Big bend National Park

Did You Know?

Big Bend and Carlsbad Caverns are only about a four hour drive apart, so try to allow time to see both!

079 Crossing the Rio Grande at Big Bend National Parks

Check out the ‘Ferry’ to cross the Rio Grande to Mexico!

You’ll get ferried across the fifty some odd feet to the reviving border town of Boquillas, Mexico. The border has re-opened since closing after 9/11, and the town is coming back after more than a decade without tourists. Arlis said she felt perfectly safe and that the Mexicans were so delighted to see the tourists again! Don’t forget your passport! And take a burro ride while you’re there:)

Burro ride in Mexican border town, Boquillas.

Things to Do at Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Hiking

Hiking IN the Cavern

Sure you can take the elevator, but why not hike the mile and a half down into the cavern and then walk another mile and a half around the cavern? Then, if you don’t feel like hiking back up, you can take the elevator!

Hiking in the Chihuahuan Desert

Plan to bring at least 4L of water on a full day hike, but the rugged desert landscape will be worth it! There are eleven trails of varying lengths and difficulty. You can check them out here. Remember that it is YOUR responsibility to be prepared and hike safely. Because of the harsh environment and extreme temperatures, it is even more important to be prepared. Check out the Adventure Travel Show podcast to get info on emergency kits, how to backpack and more “how to’s” of adventure travel. All of the episodes are posted in this website as well, so use the search bar for topics of interest.

Hike the 100 mile Gualalupe Ridge Trail (GRT)

If you are and experienced backpacker and hiker, maybe you’ll want to hike IN to Carlsbad Caverns! This 100 mile (161 km) trail begins at the highest peak in Texas: Guadalupe Peak in the Guadalupe National Park. You’ll hike through Lincoln National Forest as well as BLM land (Bureau of Land Management). Preparations are keep to keeping yourself safe in this beautiful, but rugged and harsh environment. Be sure to check out the NPS precautions.

Bat Programs

One of the biggest attractions at Carlsbad Cavern are the migratory Brazilian free tailed bats that arrive each spring (usually late March to mid-April) to breed and summer inside the caverns. Hundreds of thousands of these nocturnal mammals emerge at dusk to seek night insects for dinner. You can watch from the amphitheater or if you can snag a spot from late May through September, you can go with a Ranger, who can teach you all about this exciting event. Don’t worry, they won’t bite you! Note that the bats are sensitive to electromagnetic fields so all electronics, including cell phones and cameras are not permitted.

If you are an early riser AND are there on the Third Saturday in July at 5 am, you can also watch the bats come home to roost at dawn on this once a year event. The bats, of course, come home each night during the summer, but the Visitor’s Center doesn’t open until 8 am, long after the bats are home snoozing.

The bats return to Mexico for the winter to start the cycle all over.

Night Sky Program

Like Big Bend National Park, Carlsbad Caverns has minimal light pollution. This means GORGEOUS night skies!!! Join the Ranger after the night’s Bat Flight Program for a half mile Night Sky Program hike to witness the glorious stars and constellations. Look for shooting stars and comets. The Rangers also offer a Telescope Program. Secure your spot the same day, and visit these links for more information on the programs.