Learn How to Plan Your Grand Canyon Hike
On today’s podcast, Kit interviews Mary Banik-Massal, believed to be the woman who has hiked the Grand Canyon down to the Colorado River the most of any woman ever — 142 times as of March 2021! We will learn from this seasoned hiking expert what we need to think about and how to prepare for our Grand Canyon hiking adventure. Mary is writing a book about how to hike the Grand Canyon. If you want me to email you when it comes out, send me a message here.
Who Can Hike the Grand Canyon?
You! But you must be fit and train properly, and use good common sense when coming up with your plan. You’ll want to consider the time of year, the weather forecast, your fitness level to determine which trails to take, and whether you want to backpack or day hike in and out. You’ll need to plan your food, water, and electrolytes, as well as your clothing and other gear. Study the sections below to get a better idea of whether you should consider hiking the Grand Canyon.
IMPORTANT! You MUST have a permit for any overnight camping. And remember that even if you get a permit, that doesn’t mean your plan is a good one. If a Ranger advises against your plan, LISTEN to him or her!
You do not need a permit for day hikes, or if you are on a Mule trek or have a reservation at Phantom Ranch or developed campgrounds. Permits can be difficult to get. One work around, is to book through one of the authorized guided hiking tour companies, like my affiliate Wildland Trekking. See important additional permit information down below.
Which Grand Canyon Trails Should I Consider Hiking?
Hiking the Grand Canyon is extremely challenging for even seasoned hikers. Mary and Backcounty Rangers recommend that your first time down into the inner canyon, that you consider one of the “Corridor” Trails: Bright Angel Trail, South Kaibab Trail, or North Kaibab Trail. As a bonus, this area also has campgrounds, there are three ranger stations and you’ll have access to water and emergency phones.
Which Trail is Harder? South Kaibab or Bright Angel Trail?
Even though the 9.3 mile Bright Angel trail is two miles longer, you will have access to water and some much desired shade. Plus halfway down, you can rest at Indian Garden, which also has a toilet and a ranger station. You will not find water OR shade on the 6.8 mile South Kaibab Trail.
Many hikers like to make a ‘loop’: they will take South Kaibab down to the river and then climb up Bright Angel. This works well because you won’t need as much water (or shade) heading downhill, but can sure use it heading up! If you do this, you can leave your car at the Backcountry Info Center and then take the free Hiker’s Express shuttle to the trailhead at South Kaibab.
How Long Does it Take to Hike Down to the River?
A lot will depend on your fitness and the difficulty of the trail you select. On average, most first time hikers hike down at about a 2 mile per hour pace, but UP at a 1 mile per hour pace. Most people take about 4-5 hours to make it to Bright Angel Campground, and then take another 7-8 hours to make it back to the top.
Be sure to keep this fact in mind when you are estimating your time. You’ll want to think about the temperature throughout your estimated timeframe so that you can adequately pack the proper amount of food and water. If you don’t bring AND consume the proper amount of food or water, you can expect that your time will be considerably slower. It is common for hikers to drink enough water, but not snack enough (see below for quick carb ideas), and then they become hyperglycemic. Mary recommends eating a LOT, and even so, you will still have difficulty staying ahead of your caloric depletion.
Can I Hike the Grand Canyon Solo?
While Mary often hikes the Canyon solo, Park Rangers do NOT recommend it. If you get into trouble, you are at a greater risk of a poor outcome. Also, mountain lions are in the Park, and you will resemble prey if you are not in a group.
Can I hike down and back in a day?
Once again, Mary does this but it is NOT recommended by Park Rangers. Mary has over four DECADES of experience hiking the Grand Canyon, and thus knows the canyon and how to prepare better than just about anyone but a ranger.
When to Hike the Grand Canyon
In the summer, the canyon gets over 100 degrees fahrenheit, so ideally, you’ll plan on a spring or fall hike. Winter hiking can be fabulous as well, as long as you are a skilled cold weather camper.
How Much Water Do I Need?
Rangers estimate that you will need about 4L per day. There are very few places to obtain treated water along the corridor trails:
- Mile-and-a-half and Three-Mile resthouses (on the Bright Angel Trail) => May to Sept
- Indian Garden => year-round
- Bright Angel Campground => year-round
- Phantom Ranch => year-round
- Cottonwood Campground => May to mid-Oct
- Roaring Springs Trail Junction => May to mid-Oct
You will need less water on the way down. PLAN your water stops so that you carry the amount of water you expect to need, with some cushioning, until your next water source. Bring some system of portable water treatment (Listen to my companion podcast, the Adventure Travel Show for ideas, and visit the webpage here). Water weighs about 8 pounds per gallon, so this is an area you want to spend a little time on!
IMPORTANT! Before you go, check to make sure that the water sources you plan on accessing aren’t out of service!
What Kind of Food Do I Pack?
This is not the time to count calories, unless you are counting a lot of them! Nutrition also isn’t as important as getting enough simple carbs for energy.
Mary brings an assortment of as many as 20 items with here. Some favorites are Snickers bars, Cheetos and potato chips (which she crushes to minimize bulk). Think junk food. Consider packing jerky, tuna packets, nuts and hard boiled eggs(eat these early before they spoil!). Mary brings an already peeled orange and chocolate milk. She says she ‘slams’ salt the entire hike by continually eating salty foods. She also packs sodium and potassium tablets to use if her electrolytes get out of whack (and it’s usually the potassium).
When taking a break, watch your pack! Small mammals have become pests and can eat through your pack (DON’T FEED THEM – That how they became pests!).
Leave No Trace – Are there any toilets in the Grand Canyon?
With the world’s beautiful places so crowded, and especially on the delicate landscape that you’ll find in the Grand Canyon, it is important to Leave No Trace. While you can’t always control when ‘nature’ calls, you can minimize your impact by using the few toilets that are available, and then packing a zip bag labeled ‘trash’ to pack out all your toilet paper, wrappers and other trash, including any unwanted water bottles. You must also bring your own toilet paper.
Unless you are directly on the river, ‘go’ 200′ from any water source, campsite or the trail. If you have to go #2, dig a 6″ ‘cat hole’ and go in there. Cover your used hole with dirt (and I usually poke a small upright stick in it to let others know that I’ve used that spot). Obviously, pack out your TP. If you are down by the river and need to pee, go right at the water’s edge. Unlike wetter parts of the US, where you urinate 200′ or more from a water source, in the desert where there is little rain, you go IN or by the water. There’s often not enough rain to ‘flush’ the soil.
Get more information on Leave No Trace principals on this episode of my companion Adventure Travel Show podcast and webpage.
Mule Packing and Mule Transport
If you arrange things in advance, you can not only have a mule carry up your main gear, but you can also arrange to haul yourself on a mule. But be forewarned, while there’s never been an accident, the mules may be carrying your right by the edge which can drop off, scarily so.
Check with the Bright Angel Lodge’s Transportation Desk on the South Rim. They work with a mule outfitter to make whatever arrangements you need, obviously for a fee.
What Gear Should I Pack?
To save weight, I would skip the stove and just eat cold food. Bring a tent in the winter. You could probably get away with a lightweight ripstop tarp as a summer shelter, with a sheet as your ‘sleeping bag’. Regardless of when you go, even though the corridor trails are hard to get lost on BRING A PAPER MAP! GPS doesn’t work well in the canyon, and you could lose or break your phone.
Emergency! Emergency! What should I do if I need help in the Grand Canyon?
As whenever you go into the wild, you should plan on ‘self rescue’ if something goes wrong. You can’t count on there being anyone around to assist you. You can’t count on your ophone having a signal to call for help. You should bring an emergency kit to handle the most common problems as well as the minimal gear to survive the night should you unexpectedly have to (do this ANYTIME you go into the wild!).
In the Grand Canyon, there are two ranger stations along the corridor trails. The stations are at Indian Garden and Phantom Ranch (both staffed year ’round). Plus there are emergency phones that do not require coins at the Bright Angel Trail rest house, where South Kaibab and Tonto trails meet.
Fatigue is NOT an emergency! If the rangers agree you need assistance, you will get helicoptered out at taxpayer expense, but then you will need to pay for the expensive ambulance and other flight transport costs (be sure to buy adventure travel insurance – not all travel insurance policies cover adventure!!!).
On average, two out of three days, someone gets helicoptered out, most of the time during the summer due to complications from the heat or exposure.
Grand Canyon Overnight Permits
Hiking the Grand Canyon is a ‘Bucket List’ adventure for so many people. So obtaining a permit can be frustrating!
If when you want to hike is booked solid, just keep checking, checking, checking in case you luck out with your timing and a cancellation.
Alternatively, you can head to the Backcountry Information Center at 8am promptly, and take your chances. You’ll get on a ‘Wait List’ and each day you are waiting(but you have to show up each day at 8am), you move further and further up the list. Expect it to take at least 1-3 days.
A sure fire way to hike the Grand Canyon, is to jsut plan on day hikes, which do not require a permit. Or you can book a guided tour with an authorized tour guide. I recommend my affiliate, Wildland Trekking. If you can snag a campsite or dormroom or cabin at the Phamtom Ranch, you’re go to go as well. Phantom Ranch works on an online lottery system 15 months out.
You are not allowed to deviate from your itinerary. If you get caught overnight hiking without a permit, there is a serious fine. There is a permit tag that is attached to your backpack.
Scorpions and Snakes – “Oh, my!”
Yes, there’s a good chance you’ll see scorpions out searching for a cricket dinner. Be sure to shake out your shoes and sleeping bag so you don’t have an unpleasant and painful surprise. Usually a sting hurts like heck, but you’re unlikey to die.
There are rattlesnakes as well in the canyon. As with anywhere, never put your hands or feet where you can’t see and you should be fine. If you see a snake, just walk slowly around it (after you’ve taken its picture, of course).
LINKS MENTIONED ON THE PODCAST:
Active Travel Adventures podcasts:
Adventure Travel Show podcasts:
How to Choose a Portable Water Treatment System
Other links:
Grand Canyon Rim to Rim Facebook group
Grand Canyon Hiker’s Facebook group
Gear Mary swears by:
Mary says that training on the MaxiClimber XL made her knees which are supposed to be replaced fine for hiking the Grand Canyon (AT AGE 70!) last November.
Mary also said that once she switched to wearing trail runners, in particular, she wears Altra trail runners, that she’s never had a blister and her heels and foot pad not longer bothers her. She convince me, and I bought Brooks brand, which fit my feet better and I am sold on trail runners as well!
In the winter, Mary packs her Kahtoola micro spikes to avoid slipping on ice.
Mary also favors Injinji hiking toe socks, as do I, to help keep blisters at bay. I wear them as a liner sock with Smart Wool socks over them.
Mention Active Travel Adventure sent you to get 5% off! Plus, at no additional cost to you, you’ll be helping to support the podcast – many thanks! Kit
