Walking the El Camino de Santiago – The Many Paths of this Pilgrimage

While often walked as a pilgrimage to the Catedral del Santiago, the presumed burial place of St. Jame’s remains, thousands of folks walk the multiple paths or ways to this coastal town for their own personal reasons.  Often they return again and again.  Today I interview Umberto di Venosa of Follow the Camino, a tour company he founded after becoming enamored with the “Way”, and finding no company set up to assist those seeking to walk The El Camino, decided to start one himself.

We learn about the multiple paths that head to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, when to go, who walks the El Camino and why, and what you can expect if you walk the El Camino.   On the many trails, you’ll walk through mountains and villages, mesas and pastures.  You’ll meet fellow pilgrims and make lifelong friends.  You will return home refreshed and renewed from walking this trail famous for replenishing the soul.

What is the El Camino?

The El Camino de Santiago, sometimes called “The Way”, is actually multiple traditional trade route paths used by Christian pilgrims over the centuries who walked to the cathedral in Santiago, Spain to pay homage to St. James, who is believed to be buried there.  This pilgrim’s walk was originally walked to gain a plenary indulgence, or forgiveness or lessening of punishment for a sin.

The most popular path is the “French Way”, which starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on the French side of the Pyrenees.  This almost 500 miles route (769 km) takes most people about four weeks to complete.  The French Way route passes through the major cities of Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos and Leon.  Roughly 60% of pilgrims choose the French Way.

Who walks the El Camino de Santiago?

For more than 1000 years, people of all ages and backgrounds have walked the El Camino.  Traditionally a religious pilgrimage, many folks now camino for personal reasons, almost as a trail of self discovery, as you will have plenty of time for self reflection.  If you are unable to walk, or don’t have the time for a full walking camino, you can also bike or even horseback ride much of the Camino.

The El Camino is also a very sociable path, particularly the busy French Way.  You are likely to make life long friends,

Most pilgrims (you are called a pilgrim whether or not you are walking for religious reasons) tie a scallop shell to their day pack, which tells others that you, too are a pilgrim.  There are multiple theories of the scallop shell symbol.  Regardless of the reason, most tie a shell to their backpack if for no other reason than a souvenier.  The shell is also the symbol used on the El Camino sign posts.

Is the El Camino de Santiago well marked?

Yes!  You will see the ‘shell’ emblem sign posts throughout your journey, indicating which way to go and when to turn.  You are not likely to get lost.

Where To Stay on the El Camino

In the cities and many towns, you can of course stay in traditional inns and hotels, but many pilgrims chose to stay in the ‘Alburques’ or pilgrim’s hostels that are available along the way.  These are of varying quality, available only to pilgrims, and are inexpensive.

While you don’t have to make a reservation, during the summer, it is wise to book at least a day or two in advance to make sure you’ll have a bed and not have to camp on the floor somewhere.  Most hostels, even if full, will try to find you a place to rest your head, but it may not be very comfortable.

Because the quality (cleanliness?) of some of the alburques and inns can vary widely, you may want to use the help of someone who intimately knows the ins and outs of the Way, and the best places to stay for your particular budget.  And if you don’t speak the language, you may find it helpful to have someone arrange your accommodations.

I recommend my affiliate, Follow The Camino, a company that specializes in helping pilgrims plan their journey.   After his own camino, founder Umberto di Venosa started the company because he couldn’t find any companies offering a planning service for this complicated multi-week adventure.   So whether you want to stay in the alburques or nicer inns, Follow the Camino can take care of the logistics of your pilgrimmage so all you have to worry about it walking (or biking).  If you’d rather hike with a guide, they also offer guided tours.

PLAN YOUR TRIP : HELPFUL TOOLS!

Follow the Camino is a Camino tour company that has some great tools to help you plan your own Camino walk that I’ve asked them to share with us:

• Camino training plans that were designed by physiotherapists: one for walking and one for cycling – these have lovely infographic style printables too!
• a comprehensive packing list for walking and cycling
• a guide for choosing the best Camino shoes
• a guide for choosing the best backpack for you

and our Camino weather map which shows you the average weather at various times of the year for better planning!

Be Sure You Know if it’s a Jubilee Year!  2021 is next!

Naturally, because of the connection to St. James, whenever St. James’s Day, July 25th, falls on a Sunday, the cathedral declares a Holy or Jubilee Year. Leap years alter the recurrence, but Holy Years occur in 5, 6 or 11 year intervals.  2021 is the next Holy Year, followed by 2027 and 2032. 

The El Camino is particularly popular during these Holy Years, as the ‘jubilee’ means a universal forgiveness of sins.  If you wish to walk the El Camino during a Jubilee Year, be SURE to book your accommodations well in advance, and expect things to be especially busy!

Where Does the El Camino End?

All of the various routes of the El Camino end in Santiago de Compostela at the Catedral de Compostela (pictured).  Most years, you enter through the Plaza of Platerías, unless it is a Holy Year when you have to go through the Puerta Santa.

You’ll no doubt want to spend a few days in Santiago to relax and explore.  Since you are not allowed to bring your backpack into the cathedral, make sure to drop it off at your lodging before to get there.

Most pilgrims try to time their arrival to attend one of the Pilgrim’s Masses, which are celebrated daily at noon and 4:30pm.  In particular, Pilgrims try to arrive on Friday.

On Friday afternoons, you can watch the famous “Botafumerio†ceremony.  In this ritual, the priests sway a massive thurible with thick ropes through the cathedral while the choir sings and the organ plays.  A thurible is a metal container with mesh holes that release the incense burning inside – see the short video to check it out.  The pulley system that rolls the rope was installed in 1604!  It’s a moving ceremony and fitting conclusion to your Camino.

Also, be sure to climb up to the rooftop to catch the beautiful views of the city!

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