Many people know about the El Camino de Santiago, but what they often don’t realize is that there are many routes to get to the famous cathedral in Santiago. Arguably the prettiest and most challenging, the Camino Primitivo, is also the very first pilgrimage Camino path, so it is also called the “Original Way”.
On today’s podcast, we learn about this lesser known route and why you should consider it for your Camino. On the top listed podcast below (in the red box), I also share my insights about planning your Camino to avoid the crowds.
What is the El Camino de Santiago?
For centuries, ‘pilgrims’ have walked (and more recently biked) an assortment of paths across Europe to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, to the Cathedral thought to hold the relics of St. John. While originally walked for religious reasons, many pilgrims do a ‘Camino’ for personal reasons or just for some ‘me’ time. If you walk at least the final 100 km (about 60 miles) or bike at least 200 km, then you can get a certificate proving your pilgrimage. Along the way, at hostels and other businesses, you get your ‘Pilgrim’s Passport’ stamped to verify your journey – see the top photo of our guest, Niall’s Pilgrim’s Passport.
To plan your El Camino, be sure to also check out our earlier episodes and webpages on hiking the El Camino and the different paths to Santiago HERE.
This episode covers my own Primitivo Camino plus I share helpful tips to help your plan your own Camino to avoid the crowds.
On this episode, I interview Rose about her Primitivo Camino, the show that inspired my own Camino.
Where is the Camino Primitivo
The Camino Primitivo begins in the Asturian Spanish capitol of Oviedo. From them it heads west to Lugo before turning south to Santiago. On this path, you walk through scenic mountains and valleys, through farmland and charming villages. You’ll have ample opportunity to experience the Cantabria and Galician culture on your Camino. On the last couple of days, it joins up with the French Way before ending in Santiago de Compostela.
How Long is the Camino Primitivo
The Camino Primitivo route is just under 200 miles, or 312 km. Most people break it up into the following legs:
How Long Does it Take to Hike the Camino Primitivo
Most people walk the Camino Primitivo in 16 days – see the route map above for distances and stops. Great towns to take a ‘Rest Day’ include Lugo and Melide. My affiliate, Follow the Camino, can set up your Camino to fit the pace you desire [use ATA5 for a 5% discount). And if you can’t spare the time to do the Camino Primitivo all at one time, they offer it broken down into two self-guided tours: from Oviedo to Lugo [133 miles/213 km over 11 days], and then Lugo to Santiago [61 miles/99 km over 7 days].
Plan Your Camino
You can plan your Camino on your own, but if you’d rather save the time and headaches, consider Follow The Camino, an expert Camino planning tour company that can help you experience the Camino of your dreams. Experts on all things Camino, they can affordably custom cater to your time table and budget.
Mention ATA5 at checkout to get a special Active Travel Adventures 5% discount on your Camino (or other walking holidays through their other company, One Foot Abroad (other European walking and cycling holidays).
Camino Add Ons
Follow the Camino can also tailor your Camino to your tastes and budget. Want more luxurious accommodations? They’ve got you covered. Breakfast is included on all of their tours, but you can also have them include your dinners, so all you have to pay extra for is drinks, snacks and lunch.
You can also have Follow the Camino pick you up and/or take you back to the airport for a worry free transfer.
And if you want to stay an extra night or two anywhere along your Camino, FTC can adapt your tour to accommodate your request here as well. Lugo and Malide makes for a fun extra night if you want to take a ‘Rest Day’. Also, be sure to make time to spend a couple of extra nights in both Oviedo and Santiago at the beginning and end of your Camino. Follow the Camino can also arrange for fun day tours at any of your stops.
When to Hike the Camino Primitivo
Although you can theoretically walk the Camino Primitivo any month of the year, there are definitely better months to hike the Camino than others.
The most popular months to walk the Camino Primitivo are May, June and September. So these are the months to go if you want to meet more fellow pilgrims along the trail. Restaurants, etc will naturally be busier these months as well.
The Camino Primitivo is not the busiest of the Camino routes, so you will never face the crowds you would say, on the French Way (which you should note that this route joins up with in Melide on the last two days), but if you seek the most tranquility with the best weather, then consider going in April, July or August. It doesn’t get as hot as you might worry about in the middle of summer.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT LODGING!!! Even though this is a lesser traveled route, you should book your lodging in advance as there are fewer options along the Primitivo because it is less traveled. From spring to fall, even the pilgrim’s alburques get full, especially the closer you get to Santiago, and you may have to walk to the next town (when you are already tired). I do NOT recommend ‘winging it’ as far as lodging anymore on any Camino unless you are walking in the off season. Those days are over. Check out Follow the Camino (use promo code ATA5 for 5% off) to arrange your Camino.
Here are weather averages for key stops along the Camino Primitivo:
If you want to avoid rain, then go during the summer, as June through August are the driest months on the Camino Primitivo. Just make sure you book your lodging in advance!!!
How Hard is the Camino Primitivo
Many consider the Camino Primitivo the most challenging of the Camino routes. You cross a mountain range, climbing over 3300’/1100m above sea level. But you will be rewarded with spectacular views of Embalse de Salime, the River Navia and the surrounding mountains. Because of the elevation change AND the duration, I would rank the Camino Primitivo a 3.5 out of five for difficulty.
Training for the Camino Primitivo
When you train for your Camino, don’t just train for elevation and daily miles. While that is important, it is equally important that you train your body to get used to doing so DAY AFTER DAY. This is not a ‘weekend warrior’ type hike, where you can let your body rest come Monday. When you hike the Camino or any long distance trail, you have to get up everyday and do it again.
If you want guidance in planning your training, get a free consultation with my affiliate Trailblazer Wellness. Be sure to tell them ATA sent you to get 10% OFF your custom online training program. Becki can work with you from wherever you are and with whatever exercise tools you already have.
Food Along the Camino Primitivo
You are in for a treat: Spanish food is delicious!!! They also offer small plates called tapas of a wide variety of foods, so you can keep your energy levels up with regular stops. Be sure to check your itinerary to make sure that you will be going through villages on a given day and always bring snacks and water with you in your day pack (Follow the Camino can transfer your luggage every day so all you need to carry is your layers, food and drinks and an emergency kit).
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT FOOD:
Spainards eat according to a different clock than many cultures. Cafes often don’t open until 9 am, when pilgrims have long left the village. Restaurants, shops and grocery stores close for siesta midday and don’t open again until after four.
So you MUST plan your food (and coffee!) or you will be hungry! Keep a stash of nibbles in your main luggage so you can replenish your day pack daily. If you can’t get going without morning coffee, remember you may not come to a cafe until close to noon. So in addition to your electricity converter, be sure to pack a portable immersion heater, an unbreakable lightweight mug and some instant coffee packets. Spainards eat dinner late at night.
Popular Spanish Dishes to Try
- Tapas: Small plates of an amazing variety. In bars, if you order a drink, you will often get a tapa. When biking the Camino, stopping for tapas is a great and delicious way to keep fueled!
- Paella: The famous rice dish with seafood, chicken or rabbit
- Ibérico ham: Black ham flavored by the acorns the wild pigs eat
- Pisto: Spanish ratatouille
- Cochinillo asado: roast suckling pig or lamb
- Turrón: almond nougat
- Tortilla Espanola: An egg, potato and onion omelette
Where to Stay on the El Camino
Fortunately, the routes of the El Camino have been traveled by pilgrims for centuries and while there is an abundance of lodging options to fit most budgets along the French Way and Portuguese Way, on the lesser traveled routes like the Primitivo, you will have fewer options, particulaly in small villages.
If you are walking spring, summer or fall, you really need to book in advance so you don’t get stuck walking to the next town because even the alburques are overflowing!
Typical Alburque – Pilgrim’s Hostel
The least expensive option is for pilgrims to stay in an albergue, or Pilgrim’s hostel. They charge a nominal fee per night and the hostels host only fellow Pilgrims, so you’ll meet lots of folks on the same journey as yourself. BUT, you are trading off the cheap price and companionship for privacy (and sometimes cleanliness) as you are generally sharing a dorm room.
AND, alburques do not accept reservations, so during the busy season, pilgrims get up super early to make sure they get a bed. I went in early spring, yet there were lines waiting for the alburques to open, and sometimes people had to sleep on the ground under a tarp because there simply wasn’t enough room.
Also, after walking or biking all day, expect snoring and other noises and light, so pack ear plugs and an eye mask if you stay in own of these dorms! Also pack shower shoes and a small camp towel. I also recommend a sleeping bag liner. They’ll give you a sheet and sometimes a blanket, but I liked the added layer when I had to stay in an alburque.
Alternatively, Follow the Camino, my recommended tour company, can put you up in some comfy accommodations for a very reasonable price (plus don’t forget to get the 5% discount with the ATA5 Promo Code!). They know the Camino routes so well, so they know the best places to stay and can get the best prices since they arrange so many pilgrim’s Camino. I think you’ll find it very much worth it to use them. You will meet lots of fellow pilgrims during the day you can socialize with at night, plus it is easy to meet folks at restaurants, too. So by staying in nicer lodging, you’ll get a comfortable night’s sleep but still make friends to hang out with.
How to Plan your El Camino
While you can certainly plan your Camino independantly, I recommend using my affiliate Follow the Camino. They are experts in all things Camino and can plan your walking and biking El Camino for you. They know the best places to stay for your budget, they arrange daily transfer of your main luggage so all you carry is some snacks, water and a jacket, etc. in your provided panier. In addition, FTC provides you with maps and explicit directions and arranges for your bike rental to be delivered directly to your first lodging. Plus, if you run into any problems, Follow the Camino offers 24/7 phone support to give you added confidence.
Pack
Here’s a handy packing guide checklist for your El Camino or any adventure: scan the list to make sure you don’t forget anything. Not on the list, as this is specific to Spain is the coffee set up listed under Food above, so don’t forget that!
Insure Your Trip
Things happen, so don’t forget to insure your trip! Use this handy travel insurance comparison tool to shop prices and policies without having to give identificable information unless you select a policy!
How to Find the Camino Trail
The Camino is extremely well marked with the iconic scallop shell trail markers that look like a sunburst – see the pics above. It is really hard to get lost (although you will have to pay more attention if you are biking to make sure you don’t whiz past a turn). That said, I still recommend you download one of the Camino apps just to be safe. Plus, sometimes in cities, it is easy to miss a turn as there are many things competing for your eyes and you might miss a scallop marker.
Why does a Scallop Shell indicate a Pilgrim or the Trail?
Back in the day, when you reached the shore, it was thought to be the ends of the earth and so picking up a scallop shell was a token (and proof) of your pilgrimage. So over time, Pilgrims began identifying themselves by tying a scallop shell to their backpacks, or in the case of bikers, their paniers. As the trail became more popular, the routes were blazed, or marked, with the scallop shell icon.
Santiago de Compostela
Regardless of which Camino route you travel, all paths lead to Santiago de Compostela and its famous cathedral pictured below. It is believed that relics (remains) of Saint James the apostle were transported and buried here. It is only one of three remaining cathedrals built over an apostle’s remains (the others being St Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City and St Thomas Cathedral Basilica, Chennai in India).
The first pilgrim, King Alfonso II of Asturias, nicknamed the Chaste, left his capitol of Oviedo in the year 814 to travel to Santiago. This is why the Camino Primitivo is considered the “Original Way”.
In recent years, the Cathedral was undergoing massive renovations, so pilgrims missed the pilgrims’ mass at the end of their journey. But I am pleased to report that the Santiago Cathedral main renovations have been completed! There are still some other renovations in the works, but if you’ve been waiting until the Cathedral opened up again, your wait is over!
If you time your pilgrimage right, you may be lucky enough to witness the Botafumeiro (“the smoke spreader”), a famous thurible in the Cathedral. At times, the priests will burn incense inside and swing the large metal container (the censer) over the parishoners.
During Holy Years, when July 25th falls on a Sunday, (the Feast Day of St. James), the incense is burned on the Friday pilgrim’s mass. Otherwise, it is only burned on high holy days. For more details, check here. Upcoming Holy Years: 2027, 2032, 2038 and 2049. Due to the pandemic, the Holy Year of 2021 was extended into 2022. Note that Holy Years are extremely busy, so unless you are going for religious reasons, I would avoid doing your Camino during one. Some Fridays offer the botafumerio.
Fisterra – Take your Camino to the Sea
If you are willing to walk another couple of days, you can complete your Camino at Fisterra, as many historical pilgrims did. It was once thought the end of the world, and pilgrims would collect a scallop to prove their pilgrimmage.
Another option is to do like I did and take a public bus. Be sure to buy either a round trip ticket in Santiago, or if that is not an option, then make sure you buy your return ticket when you get there (I had to wait a bit for the agent to arrive to open the ticket office). The returns were sold out later that day and I am not sure how the folks stranded got back. Also, the return bus took two (scenic) hours instead of the short journey there.
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